Cozumel Offers Myriad Dive Sites, Ecological Reserves and Mayan Ruins

It was nearly a half century ago when famed underwater oceanographer Jacques Cousteau happened upon Cozumel, Mexico, declaring it one of the most spectacular dive locations in the world.

Much has changed since Cousteau was first enamored of this sleeply, sun-drenched oasis at the eastern tip of the Yucatan Peninsula. Today, the island and its unpretentious town, San Miguel, welcome 3 million cruise ship passengers annually. If pastel-colored boutiques, open-air restaurants, nearby ruins and beaches aren’t enticing enough, then the world’s second-largest coral reef system is minutes away.

Arrival
Hurricane Wilma was not kind to the region when she made landfall in 2005. She battled this 30-mile long, 10-mile wide haven, inflicting considerable damage; and cruise passengers were tendered ashore throughout 2006. But San Miguel’s cozy, downtown core has since been revitalized, and two of its three cruise ship piers have re-opened: The International Pier, a 10-minute taxi ride to downtown San Miguel, welcomed ships last May; and the Punta Langosta Pier, centrally located in San Miguel, began hosting vessels last September. A facelift of the Puerta Maya Pier may take another year to complete. Meanwhile, the island’s 50 hotels, which offer a total of some 4,000 guest rooms, have rebounded after about $80 million in renovations.

Independent Sightseeing
The best beaches are on the southwestern part of the island, about a 10-minute taxi ride from the International Pier. Beach clubs such as Mr. Sanchos, Playa Mia and Playa Uvas feature restaurants, bars and water sports.

Must-See Attractions
Some 37 dive sites teem with tropical fish, marine life and multicolored coral reefs, which often feature limestone caves and tunnels. Divers can explore the popular site of Palancar, face off with moray eels at Tormentos, plunge 120 feet into the brilliant green abyss of San Francisco or spend the day diving at Chankanaab Park, where they can swim with dolphins.

More than 30 reefs range in depth from 15 to 90 feet. Transparent waters in some locales provide divers with up to 200 feet of visibility. Contributing to the island’s allure are year-round water temperatures ranging from 77 to 82 degrees.

On land, clients can find small archeological sights, including the restored ruins of Maya-Toltec at San Gervasio, near San Miguel. They can also visit the Museum of the Island of Cozumel, located downtown.

Prefer to stay dry underwater? Near the International Pier is Atlantis Submarine, a 40-minute excursion.

Off the Beaten Path
Punta Sur Park is an ecological reserve featuring tours, a beach area, a lighthouse, a maritime museum, a small Mayan ruin and a free catamaran ride through mangroves.

A visit to El Cedral, once the largest settlement in Cozumel, features the oldest Maya structure on the island. The eastern side of the island boasts many secluded beaches and rustic bars.

Shore Excursions
Look for a variety of land and water tours offered by cruise ships, such as catamaran and glass-bottom boat rides.

Adventuresome travelers will enjoy Cozumel’s four-hour “Jeep Jungle Tour” along remote beaches. The trip includes a Mayan ruin visit, snorkeling at Micro Atolls reef and a picnic lunch. Several lines offer this excursion at an average cost of $80 per adult and $55 for children.

The four-hour “ATV Jungle and Beach Tour,” for people ages 16 and older, features some of the most scenic nature views on the island. Some tours include kayaking and snorkeling. The average cost is $95 per person. Cruise lines also offer similar ATV tours, but without beach stops and snorkeling.

Dining
Downtown San Miguel offers popular local haunts such as Pancho’s Backyard, as well as the Carlos and Charlie’s, Hard Rock Café and Senior Frog’s chains.

Best Souvenirs
Black coral, silver and local handmade crafts top the list. Bargaining is common. Shop owners are friendly, but along San Miguel’s waterfront boulevard, the Malecon, pitchmen aggressively encourage visitors to shop their stores.

Be Aware
Sunblock is absolutely necessary. Temperatures here average 76 degrees. For those who are planning activities in and around the island’s jungles, insect spray is highly recommended. Taxis are not metered, and visitors should establish a price upon entering the cab.