Best known for their charming colonial architecture, bright color palettes and warm hospitality, travelers might be surprised to learn the boutique haciendas of today have a dark and complex history. Built and owned by Spanish noblemen following Spain’s colonization of Mexico in the 1500s, many of the country’s haciendas date to the 17-through-19 centuries when they were used for cattle ranching and the production of henequen, a string-like fiber sourced from native agave plants.
As demand for henequen, or “sisal,” rose, the Spanish drafted workers from abroad to farm alongside local Maya people. And, while laborers weren’t technically categorized as slaves, they were forced to work around the clock in exchange for little food and water and were met with harsh punishments from hacienda owners if they were deemed unproductive. This, combined with the fact workers were tied to the land and compensated with money that could only be spent on hacienda grounds, caused internal turmoil, eventually leading to a widespread worker uprising later dubbed the “Mexican Revolution.”
By the 1950s, many haciendas were abandoned, leaving the properties to be overtaken by nature until private hotel owners and chains showed interest in their revival in the 1990s. Over time, the former production plants were reimagined, becoming the isolated, memorable retreats intrepid travelers know today.
During their heyday, there were an estimated 1,000+ haciendas in the Yucatán; 300 remain today.
A Look Inside Yucatán’s Restored Haciendas
The Compass on VAX recently stayed at two refurbished haciendas as part of a hosted press trip with Yucatán Travel. Both of the properties are easy to get to from Mérida, Yucatán’s capital city, and act as unique options for travelers who want to get off the beaten tourist path and discover untouched parts of Mexico.
Hacienda San José Cholul
Location: Tixkokob, Yuc.
Owned By: IHG Hotels & Resorts
Who Is It For: Outdoorsy types and wellness wanderers
Located less than an hour east of Mérida by car, a stay at Hacienda San José Cholul is an unrivaled delight. Encompassed by nature, helpful staff make guests feel at home the moment they step foot on the property, checking them in and guiding them to their rooms with a smile. Unlike the sometimes cookie-cutter accommodations of modern builds, each room at Hacienda San José Cholul is different, and during our visit, I was placed in room nine, a guestroom famous for the ancient ceiba tree that juts up through the bathroom floor. While a bit “rustic,” the digs were undoubtedly charming, flaunting massive wooden doors with latchable shutters, high crossbeam ceilings and a gorgeous blue patio I wanted to spend the whole day reading on.
Food is a high point at this resort, and Hacienda San José Cholul’s colorful dining room acts as the perfect backdrop for guests to enjoy mouthwatering meals (the chicken panuchos I had for lunch were divine and don’t even get me started on the fresh-squeezed juices). By way of onsite activities, the staff-led historical hacienda tour is a must for guests curious to learn more about the property’s story and local culture while simultaneously getting their bearings of the large complex. Meanwhile, a dip in one of the onsite pools is an effective way to beat the afternoon heat, while wellness activities like guided meditations and Maya energetic cleansings help guests unwind.
When dinner rolls around, it’s back to the dining room for a very special meal as each menu item is curated under the direction of Roberto Solís, a renowned Mexican chef known for his modern take on Yucatán cuisine. Eager to try it all, our table sampled the beef filet, venison with almonds and a savory fish dish (spoiler alert: they were all delicious). Of course, every great meal is best capped with dessert, and I can attest that the chocolate cake is a winner.
While I won’t say this property will be a perfect fit for everyone — Remember, it’s rustic. There are amphibians and creepy crawlies roaming about … but hey, this is the Mayan jungle we’re talking about! — for the right traveler, it could be everything. I certainly felt the magic.
Hacienda Santa Rosa de Lima
Location: Santa Rosa, Yuc.
Owned By: IHG Hotels & Resorts
Who Is It For: Poolside loungers and friendly folk
Just over an hour west of Mérida sits Hacienda Santa Rosa de Lima, another picture-perfect restored hacienda owned and operated by IHG Hotels & Resorts. The property’s lengthy stone-paved entrance is lined by soaring palm trees, and as they approach the check-in area, guests are met with colonial-style architecture painted in striking shades of red, blue and yellow. Pair this with lush, jungle foliage and an immaculately-kept lawn, and it's easy to feel as if you just stepped foot into your own private paradise — despite the hotel being just a hop, skip and a jump from a neighboring village. Like Hacienda San José Cholul, the staff at Hacienda Santa Rosa de Lima go above and beyond for their guests, guiding them to their rooms and hooking them up with extra bug spray in the thick of mosquito season.
While my travel companions were placed in rooms closer to the check-in building and dining area, my accommodations were nestled down a tree-lined path near the hacienda’s former sisal processing area. Upon heading inside, I was immediately taken by the room’s sky-high ceilings which had to total somewhere near 40 feet. Although it was painted in a different color scheme — dark red versus light green — the interior of my room was similar to that of Hacienda San José Cholul with simple furnishings, basic amenities and, most importantly, a clean and comfortable bed. While there wasn’t a tree this time, my bathroom at Hacienda Santa Rosa de Lima was spacious and boasted a modern feel with bright lighting and an impressive walkout patio complete with a single hammock and private pool access.
With a late-afternoon arrival, and only one night in the books, our agenda was jam-packed with excitement comprising a quick lunch, a staff-led historic property tour, a touch of downtime to explore and a formal dinner at 8 p.m. The culinary offerings at Hacienda Santa Rosa de Lima are identical to Hacienda San José Cholul, meaning everything is helmed by Chef Roberto Solís and there isn’t a bad choice on the menu. For lunch, I chose the seasonal squash and a lemonade, and the result was fresh, colorful and delicious.
During the staff-led tour, our group explored the property’s various nooks and crannies including different room categories — from classic guestrooms to casitas with swinging beds — the remains of the old sisal factory, the Zen-inspiring onsite spa and an expansive herb garden where chefs pick fresh-grown greens for corresponding dishes. We oohed and aahed at the hacienda’s beautiful landscaping and charming buildings, and I found it neat that each room is a little bit different, making the property a unique stay for visitors.
While my phone didn’t photograph the scene well, dinner was like something straight out of “The Bachelor” as staff arranged a table for our group on the hacienda’s sprawling patio, the night stars sparkled above us and a raging campfire burned beside us — one of Hacienda Santa Rosa de Lima’s specialties, and quite an enchanting touch if I must say so myself. After having it the night before at Hacienda San José Cholul, I was eager to order the beef filet again, and I’m happy to report it came out a perfect mid-rare. For dessert? This time it was rice pudding, a tasty and refreshing treat to end the meal.
Lucky for me, after a night’s rest, I had one more scrumptious meal at Hacienda Santa Rosa de Lima on the docket: Breakfast with all the fixings. And, as I filled up on homemade jam; soft bread served with fresh butter; tasty scrambled eggs and potatoes; and coffee so strong it will knock your socks off, I took a moment to reflect on how fortunate I was to have spent time at not one, but two, of Yucatán’s historical haciendas, an experience I won’t soon forget.
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